HDMI vs DisplayPort vs DVI vs VGA – every connection explained

display_connectors_0

Most monitors will have a range of different inputs available, and your PC or laptop will also use different outputs, so it can be difficult to decide which is the best one for you to use. Under most general circumstances, you might be able to get away with using whichever cable you have lying around, but if you have more specific needs, such as carrying audio or using high resolutions or refresh rates, you’ll need to be more discerning in your choice of cable. We outline the different cables below and give you a few different usage scenarios to help you decide.

HDMI 

HDMI, or ‘High-Definition Multimedia Interface’ to use its full name, is one of the most common connections. You’ve probably come across it on your television, set-top boxes, tablets, laptops and games consoles.

HDMI is unique among the many connection options in that it’s able to carry both uncompressed video and uncompressed audio. This is why it’s become the connection of choice for most multimedia devices as it’s a one cable solution (like SCART but so much less annoying). Other benefits of HDMI include functions such as HDMI-CEC (HDMI Consumer Electronics Control), which allows you to control numerous devices with one remote. For example, connect a soundbar to your television through a HDMI-CEC compatible port and the soundbar can turn on and off with your television and be controlled by a single remote.

hdmi_type

 

HDMI has seen numerous revisions since its inception in 2002. Its most common version, used in most consumer devices at present, is 1.4 but there’s a newer, more exciting 2.0 specification now becoming more prominent. The main difference between the 1.4 and 2.0 specifications focus around bandwidth available. HDMI 1.4 has a bandwidth maximum of 10.2 Gbps/s whereas the HDMI 2.0 tops out at 18 Gbps/s.

The reason that bandwidth becomes important is due to the advent of 4K content. Due to the limited bandwidth of HDMI 1.4, only 24fps was possible at 4K resolution (3,840 x 2,160). Now, thanks to the extra bandwidth available in the 2.0 specification, up to 60fps at 4K resolution is possible.

Colour depth is also another area where the new HDMI 2.0 specification gains some advantages. Where 1.4 was limited to 8-bit colour, HDMI 2.0 has 10-bit or 12-bit available. This is important for when High Dynamic Range (HDR) content becomes available.

HDR can be described as the ratio between the lightest and darkest parts of an image. Typically, with standard dynamic range, you’re losing detail at either end of the light spectrum. Expose a scene for the shadow detail and you end up with blown out highlights, or expose for the highlights and you lose shadow detail. HDR allows a greater range of detail across the full light spectrum.

You’ve probably already come across HDR through photography. Most smartphones now have an HDR mode where they essentially take numerous images at different exposures and combine them. As HDR has become part of the Ultra HD standard, you can expect more Ultra HD Blu-ray content to take advantage. The likes of Amazon and Netflix are going to be streaming HDR content as well.

More often than not, if you’re connecting something to a television, HDMI will be your best, and likely only, bet. Most PC monitors will also include an HDMI input. The good news, where it comes to 1.4 vs 2.0, is that you don’t need to rush out and buy new cables. To take advantage of the 2.0 specification you just need both devices on each end of the cable to be 2.0 compatible. Any HDMI cable will do, and we’ve already seen that there’s no difference in HDMI cable quality.

active_hdmi

The one thing to look out for are the different HDMI connection sizes. Not only is there full-size HDMI (Type A), but you can come across Mini HDMI (Type B) and Micro HDMI (Type C), too. These are commonly found on portable devices such as tablets, camcorders and action cameras, where their physically smaller connections are required. You can either buy HDMI-Mini HDMI/HDMI-Micro HDMI cables or you can buy Mini/Micro HDMI adaptors so you can use your full-size HDMI cables.

DisplayPort

mini_displayport

Until HDMI 2.0 became a standard, DisplayPort had it beat when it came to high-resolutions. DisplayPort 1.2 has long been able to carry 3,840×2,160 resolution video at 60fps (or a refresh rate of 60Hz) and is the most common DisplayPort specification on most consumer monitors and devices now. This has 17.28 Gbit/s of bandwidth. A newer 1.3 specification is becoming more widely available, however, and this opens the floodgates to higher resolutions such as 7,680×4,320 (8K).

er_photo_149281

The main advantage of DisplayPort is the ability to output to multiple displays through Multi-Stream Transport (MST). You can do this by daisy-chaining compatible monitors over DisplayPort or by connecting a DisplayPort MST splitter to your single DisplayPort output on your PC or laptop. You have to work within the bandwidth limitations of whichever DisplayPort specification you’re using, such as two 1,920×1,080 monitors over 1.2 or two 3,840×2,160 displays over the DisplayPort 1.3 specification. As such, DisplayPort is often a great choice for those looking to use multiple monitors.

DisplayPort also has advantages where it comes to screen refresh rates through Adaptive Sync. This is what AMD has used for its Freesync implementation. Essentially this helps reduce screen tearing, which will be of particular interest to gamers. Like HDMI, some laptops and devices use Mini DisplayPort, so make sure you get the right cable.

DVI

DVI stands for ‘Digital Visual Interface’, and is another common connection found on PC monitors. Things can become a little confusing when you consider there are three different types of DVI. There’s DVI-A (analog signal), DVI-D (digital signal) and DVI-I (integrated analog and digital signal). Not only that, but DVI-D and DVI-I have single-link and dual-link versions. Nowadays, DVI-A is very uncommon, as it’s no better than VGA.

dvi

The differences between single-link and dual-link refer to how much bandwidth the cable can carry. A single-link DVI-D or DVI-I cable can carry 3.96 Gbit/s, which tops out at 1,920×1,200 resolution. Dual-link, on the other hand, physically has extra pins on the connectors, allowing a maximum bandwidth of 7.92 Gbit/s and 2,560×1,600 resolution.Although DVI is still a common connection, it’s becoming dated, so if you want to output a very high resolution you’ll need to use HDMI or DisplayPort instead.

VGA

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VGA is the oldest of the four connections outlined in this article. It’s been around for decades, dating back to the days of thick, heavy CRT monitors of yesteryear. VGA stands for Video Graphics Array but can also be referred to as an ‘RGB connection’ or ‘D-sub’. While VGA can technically output to 1,920×1,080, the problem is that it’s an analog connection, so as you push the resolution higher you get image degradation as the signal is converted from analog to digital. Unless you absolutely have to, use one of the above connections instead of VGA.

Using a combination of HDMI, DisplayPort, DVI and VGA

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Most motherboards and dedicated graphics cards will have multiple outputs. You can use a combination of these to output to multiple monitors. So if you have HDMI and DVI outputs, connect one monitor using HDMI and the other using DVI. As mentioned above, if you’re using DisplayPort and your graphics card or device supports Multi-Stream Transport, you can daisy-chain DisplayPort monitors, too.

Any questions regarding article give me a call. I am available M-F from 10:00am-6:00pm and Sat 11am-3pm. I also sell video cards with various connections to suit your needs.

CompGuyUSA                                                                                                      4620 W. Commercial BLVD. #7C                                                                          Tamarac, FL., 33319                                                                    compguyusa@gmail.com                                                                              Contact: (954) 228-7481

 

Mac troubleshooting: dealing with hard drive woes

Your Mac has begun showing signs of trouble. Perhaps you frequently get errors when trying to open or save files. You suspect a problem with the hard drive. Before panic sets in, you want to launch Apple’s Disk Utility and select Repair Disk from the First Aid tab. Hopefully, that will remedy the situation. One problem though: Repair Disk is dimmed and you can’t select it. Why? Because OS X cannot attempt repairs on an active startup drive. You can still use Repair Permissions, which may help in certain situations. But let’s assume it doesn’t.

So what do you do instead? That depends on what Macs you own, how you have set them up, and what other precautions you may have taken prior to the start of the trouble.

First things first, if you don’t have a recent backup, make one now. But be careful. At this point, you don’t want to overwrite an existing backup—lest you replace valid data with corrupted data. Instead, back up to a separate drive. When you’re done backing up, here are the things to try. You can try each method until you find one that works:

Boot from the startup drive’s Recovery HD partition

The startup drives of Macs formatted with OS X 10.7 (Lion) or 10.8 (Mountain Lion) typically have a hidden partition designed just for moments like this. This 650MB partition is called Recovery HD. Boot your Mac from Recovery HD by holding down Command-R at startup (or by choosing it from within Startup Manager, which you access by holding down Option at startup).

If you are able to boot from Recovery HD, Disk Utility will be one of its four main options. Open Disk Utility and locate the name of your startup drive. You should now be able to select Repair Disk for that drive. From Recovery HD, you can also browse the Web for troubleshooting info using Safari as well as erase your startup drive and restore its contents from a Time Machine backup.

If you are unable to boot Recovery HD via either of these methods, it means there is no Recovery HD partition on your drive or your drive is too damaged to allow successful booting from the partition. In either case, it’s time to move on to the next repair attempts.

Boot from your emergency drive

If you previously created an emergency drive (see “Mac troubleshooting: Be prepared for hard-drive failure”), now is the time to use it. Restart while holding down the Option key. From the screen that appears, select the emergency drive. Once booted, things should work nearly identically to starting up from the Recovery HD partition. LaunchDisk Utility, choose your startup drive in the list, and select Repair Disk.

Run from a cloned startup drive

If you created a clone of your startup drive, you can boot from the clone and run Disk Utility from there. To do so, restart while holding down the Option key. From the screen that appears, select the cloned drive. When startup is complete, you’ll find Disk Utility in the /Applications/Utilities folder, just as it is on your original drive.

You may be wondering: “Does my clone drive include a Recovery HD partition? Could I start up from that partition instead?” Maybe. If you used Shirt Pocket’s $28 SuperDuper to make a clone, the clone will likely not have the Recovery HD partition. If you used Bombich Software’s $40 Carbon Copy Cloner, it should. However, if you are using a cloned drive, I wouldn’t bother with its Recovery HD partition in any case. Instead, boot from the drive directly, as I just described.

Try Safe Boot


Restart your Mac while holding down the Shift key to perform a Safe Boot.

To perform a Safe Boot, restart your Mac while holding down the Shift key.According to Apple, a Safe Boot “forces a directory check of the startup volume.” This is essentially the same thing as running First Aid’s Repair Disk. A downside of this method is that you get no feedback as to whether or not the repair succeeded. Still, if your problems vanish after doing a Safe Boot (and restarting again normally), you can assume that success was likely.

Access your Mac via Target Disk Mode

If you have two or more Macs, you may be able to connect one Mac to the other using Target Disk Mode. To do this, you’ll need a cable that can connect the two Macs. For Macs with FireWire ports, that means an appropriate FireWire cable. For Macs with Thunderbolt ports, you’ll want a Thunderbolt cable. If one Mac has FireWire and the other has Thunderbolt, you’ll need a Thunderbolt to FireWire adapter.

Once connected, boot from the second (properly working) Mac and put the problem Mac in Target mode (by holding down the T key at startup). The Target Mac should now appear as an external drive to the startup Mac. You can now attempt to repair it via Disk Utility.

Boot from Internet Recovery Mode

Internet Recovery mode uses a combination of code stored in your Mac’s firmware and a net-boot image stored on Apple’s servers to boot your Mac.

To enter Internet Recovery mode, hold down the Command-Option-R keys at startup. Run Disk Utilityfrom there.

I would use this method only if you can’t boot from the standard Recovery HD partition. This is because Internet Recovery mode requires that you download the needed software before it kicks into action. Depending on the speed of your Internet connection, this can take anywhere from about 5 minutes to more than 30 minutes. Also, note that Internet Recovery will not work with older Mac models.

Start up in Single User mode

You can do a disk repair attempt by starting up in Single User mode (holding down Command-S at startup) and running Unix’s fsck command. This method should almost never be necessary. However, if you find yourself with no other option, an Apple support article details exactly what to do.

You’ve run Repair Disk. Now what?


You’ve finally found at least one way to attempt a disk repair with Disk Utility’s First Aid or its equivalent. Congratulations. Now what? That depends on the outcome of your attempt:

Your disk is OK: If First Aid reports “the volume appears to be OK,” it’s time to look elsewhere for the cause of your problem. Ultimately, in a worst-case scenario, a fix could require reformatting your drive, reinstalling a fresh copy of OS X, and restoring your data from a backup. For details on how to do this, see “Should you do a ‘clean install’ of Lion?” The advice still applies for Mountain Lion.

Your disk has a problem but First Aid repairs it: If First Aid reports a problem and is able to repair it, that’s the likely end of the story. Conventional wisdom says to select Repair Disk a second time before quitting Disk Utility, just to be certain that no further repairs are needed. After that, reboot from the repaired drive and hope that all is fine now.

Your disk has a problem that First Aid cannot repair: If First Aid finds a problem but cannot repair it, you can try a third-party repair utility, such as Alsoft’s $100 DiskWarrior, which is even compatible with Apple’s new Fusion drive. Otherwise, reformatting the drive may help. It’s worth a try. (Even if this works, be aware that your drive is likely living on borrowed time. If you can’t copy your files off the drive, it may be time to look into recovery options.)

Software utilities and reformatting cannot fix a physical problem with the drive. If your drive is making unusual clicking noises, it’s almost certain you have a hardware problem. Assuming you’ve backed up your data, and given how inexpensive drives are these days, I would replace a drive before wasting too much time trying to resurrect it. If you can’t replace the drive yourself (which is likely with recent Mac models, almost all of which Apple has made difficult to pry open), it’s time for a trip to an Apple Store or Apple-authorized service provider.

 

CHEAP DESKTOPS COMPUTERS FOR SALE

Here at CompguyUSA i repair all kinds of computers but also sell a lot. In these times everyone’s looking to have a reliable computer whether it be for working or for pleasure. This week we have a couple of computers for sale and at a reasonable price. If your looking for a computer that wont dissapoint call or stop by today and i can get you going.

In shop i sell Factory Spec referbished HP and Dell business class towers. Here are a few computers I am selling at the moment.

HP ELITE 8000 SMALL FORM FACTOR $200 (TOWER ONLY)

3 GHz
Intel Core 2 Duo
E8400 PROCESSOR
4 GB DDR3-SDRAM
160 GB HDD
Windows 7 Home PRO
HP ELLITE 8000
20151119_155716
20151119_112918
20151119_112450
*OUTER CASING MAY SHOW LIGHT SCRATCHES BUT INTERNALS ARE ALL RE-MANUFACTURED BY OEM.
HP ELITE 6200 PRO SMALL FORM FACTOR $350 (TOWER ONLY)
Intel Core i3 (2nd Gen) 2100 / 3.1 GHz
4GB DDR3 SDRAM
160 GB HDD
Windows 7 Home PRO
HP ELLITE 8000
20151119_162516
20151119_163323 20151119_162428 20151119_162607
*OUTER CASING MAY SHOW LIGHT SCRATCHES BUT INTERNALS ARE ALL RE-MANUFACTURED BY OEM.
IF YOU NEED A COMPUTER SERVICED OR JUST LOOKING TO GET SOMETHING MORE RELIABLE GIVE ME A CALL OR STOP BY FOR YOUR FREE ESTIMATE. 

CompGuyUSA

4620 W. Commercial BLVD. #7C

Tamarac, FL., 33319

compguyusa@gmail.com

Contact: (954) 228-7481

iMac G5 20″ Model A1145 Hard Drive Replacement

CompGuyUSA                                                                         4620 W. Commercial BLVD. #7C                                                                 Tamarac, FL., 33319                                                                         compguyusa@gmail.com                                                                             Contact: (954) 228-7481

Upgrade your hard drive for more storage space.

Image 1/1: Orient the iMac face-side down on a table with the bottom edge facing yourself.

Step 1 Access Door

  •  Orient the iMac face-side down on a table with the bottom edge facing yourself.
  •  Remove the two Phillips screws securing the access door to the bottom grille of your iMac.
  •  The screws are captive in the access door.

Image 1/1: Remove the access door.

Step 2

  •  Remove the access door.

Image 1/1: Remove the three T8 Torx screws securing the front bezel to the rear case along the lower edge of the iMac.

Step 3 Front Bezel

  •  Remove the three T8 Torx screws securing the front bezel to the rear case along the lower edge of the iMac.

Image 1/2: Turn the computer over.

Step 4

  •  Turn the computer over.
  •  Use your thumbs to press both RAM arms in past the front bezel for enough clearance to lift it off the rear case.

Image 1/1: While holding the RAM arms in with your thumbs, lift the lower edge of the front bezel enough to clear the rear case.

Step 5

  •  While holding the RAM arms in with your thumbs, lift the lower edge of the front bezel enough to clear the rear case.

Image 1/3: Re-orient your iMac so it sits upright on the stand.

Step 6

  •  Re-orient your iMac so it sits upright on the stand.
  •  Insert a plastic card up into the corner of the air vent slot near the top of the rear case.
  •  Push the card toward the top of the iMac to release the front bezel latch.
  •  Pull the front bezel away from the rear case.
  •  Repeat this process for the other side of the front bezel.
  •  It may be necessary to apply several layers of duct tape to the top of the access card to aid in releasing the latches.
  •  If the bezel refuses to release, try pressing the lower edge back onto the rear case and repeat this opening process.
  •  Alternatively, you can use a strong magnet by holding it to the front top left/right corner of the display. You will hear a snapping sound when the hatch is released.

Image 1/1: Lay your iMac stand-side down on a table.

Step 7

  •  Lay your iMac stand-side down on a table.
  •  Lift the front bezel from its lower edge and rotate it away from the rest of your iMac, minding the RAM arms that may get caught.
  •  Lay the front bezel above the rest of the iMac.

Image 1/1: If necessary, remove the piece of kapton tape wrapped around the microphone and camera connectors.

Step 8

  •  If necessary, remove the piece of kapton tape wrapped around the microphone and camera connectors.

Image 1/2: Disconnect both the camera and microphone cables.

Step 9

  •  Disconnect both the camera and microphone cables.

Image 1/1: Peel the lower EMI shield off the lower edge of the iMac and off the two vertical 4" sections on either side of the iMac.

Step 10 Lower EMI Shield

  •  Peel the lower EMI shield off the lower edge of the iMac and off the two vertical 4″ sections on either side of the iMac.
  •  It is not necessary to peel the lower EMI shield off the display.

Image 1/1: Tape the lower EMI shield up against the face of the display to keep it out of the way while you work.

Step 11

  •  Tape the lower EMI shield up against the face of the display to keep it out of the way while you work.

Image 1/1: Remove the two T6 Torx screws securing the display data cable connector to the logic board.

Step 12 Display

  •  Remove the two T6 Torx screws securing the display data cable connector to the logic board.

Image 1/1: To disconnect the display data cable, grab its connector's black tab and pull it away from the face of the logic board.

Step 13

  •  To disconnect the display data cable, grab its connector’s black tab and pull it away from the face of the logic board.

Image 1/1: Peel back the two EMI tape strips from the left and right edges of the display.

Step 14

  •  Peel back the two EMI tape strips from the left and right edges of the display.
  •  During reassembly, it is helpful to use several small strips of tape to hold the EMI shielding along the left and right edges of the display footprint out of the way before lowering the display into the rear case of your iMac.

Image 1/2: Remove the four recessed T10 Torx screws securing the display to the rear case.

Step 15

  •  Remove the four recessed T10 Torx screws securing the display to the rear case.
  •  Bit drivers tend to be too short to reach these screws. Be sure to have a magnetic thin-shafted T10 Torx screwdriver on hand.

Image 1/1: Lift the lower edge of the display slightly out of the rear case.

Step 16

  •  Lift the lower edge of the display slightly out of the rear case.
  •  Disconnect both inverter cables (shown in red) by pulling their connectors toward the bottom edge of your iMac.

Image 1/1: Lift the display until it is nearly perpendicular to the rear case.

Step 17

  •  Lift the display until it is nearly perpendicular to the rear case.
  •  Disconnect the remaining two inverter cables (shown in red) by pulling their connectors toward the top edge of your iMac.

Image 1/1: While holding the display perpendicular to the rear case, pull it upward to peel off the EMI shield stuck to its upper edge.

Step 18

  •  While holding the display perpendicular to the rear case, pull it upward to peel off the EMI shield stuck to its upper edge.

Image 1/1: Disconnect the hard drive thermal sensor from the logic board by pulling its connector toward the top edge of your iMac.

Step 19 Hard Drive

  •  Disconnect the hard drive thermal sensor from the logic board by pulling its connector toward the top edge of your iMac.

Image 1/1: Remove the two T10 Torx screws securing the hard drive bracket to the inverter.

Step 20

  •  Remove the two T10 Torx screws securing the hard drive bracket to the inverter.

Image 1/1: Lift the left edge of the hard drive slightly, then pull it toward the left edge of the iMac.

Step 21

  •  Lift the left edge of the hard drive slightly, then pull it toward the left edge of the iMac.
  •  When reinstalling your hard drive, make sure not to push the rubber grommets through the chassis with the hard drive mounting pins as retrieving them may require removing the logic board.

Image 1/1: Rotate the hard drive out of the rear case.

Step 22

  •  Rotate the hard drive out of the rear case.
  •  Disconnect the SATA data cable by pulling its connector away from the hard drive.

Image 1/1: Disconnect the SATA power cable by pulling its connector away from the hard drive.

Step 23

  •  Disconnect the SATA power cable by pulling its connector away from the hard drive.
  •  Remove the hard drive from the iMac.

Image 1/2: Remove the two T8 Torx screws securing the hard drive bracket to the connector side of the hard drive.

Step 24 Hard Drive

  •  Remove the two T8 Torx screws securing the hard drive bracket to the connector side of the hard drive.
  •  Remove the hard drive bracket.

Image 1/1: Remove the two T8 Torx pins from the side of the hard drive.

Step 25

  •  Remove the two T8 Torx pins from the side of the hard drive.
Image 1/1: Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the hard drive thermal sensor off the adhesive securing it to the hard drive.

Step 26

  •  Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the hard drive thermal sensor off the adhesive securing it to the hard drive.
  • Conclusion

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

Article Source:

https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/iMac+G5+20-Inch+Model+A1145+Hard+Drive+Replacement/1147

CompGuyUSA                                                                         4620 W. Commercial BLVD. #7C                                                                 Tamarac, FL., 33319                                                                         compguyusa@gmail.com                                                                             Contact: (954) 228-7481

Asus ET2410IUTS Hard Drive Replace

ET2410IUTS

TODAY IN THE SHOP I SERVICED AN ASUS ET2410 ALL IN ONE DESKTOP NEEDING A HARD DRIVE REPLACEMENT. IF YOUR HAVING ISSUES WITH HARD DRIVE OF ANY KIND GIVE ME A CALL OR STOP BY FOR YOUR FREE ESTIMATE.

CompGuyUSA                                                                                 4620 W. Commercial BLVD. #7C                                                                 Tamarac, FL., 33319                                                                                     compguyusa@gmail.com                                                                               Contact: (954) 228-7481

To start off remove power and any other usb / connections. Lay Display face down on flat soft area.

Asus ET2410IUTS

Next remove small backing cover under display prop.

Asus ET2410IUTS_3Asus ET2410IUTS_4

Asus ET2410IUTS_5

Next remove prop by removing 4 screws

Asus ET2410IUTS_6 Asus ET2410IUTS_7

Carefully remove prop from base

Asus ET2410IUTS_8

next remove 4 black covers around corners to reveal screws

Asus ET2410IUTS_11

Asus ET2410IUTS_12

Fifth screw is located behind/under label

Asus ET2410IUTS_13 Asus ET2410IUTS_14

 

with all screws removed pry edges around casing to seperate. (careful not to force pry tool too deep)

Asus ET2410IUTS_15

Hard Drive is located in the center, remove connections from drive alone with 4 screws around casing.

Asus ET2410IUTS_16 Asus ET2410IUTS_17 Asus ET2410IUTS_18 Asus ET2410IUTS_19 Asus ET2410IUTS_20

unscrew Hard Drive from casing and install new Hard Drive.

Reassemble in reverse order. Be sure to reinstall an Operating system.

CompGuyUSA                                                                                 4620 W. Commercial BLVD. #7C                                                                 Tamarac, FL., 33319                                                                                     compguyusa@gmail.com                                                                               Contact: (954) 228-7481

 

Laptop RAM Upgrade

If you own an old laptop and want to make it run faster then maybe the easiest way  is upgrading its RAM. Read this post to learn how to make an Laptop RAM Upgrade.

Almost every laptop has a removable cover on its underside. Read your laptop’s manual if you can’t locate it. The memory slots are placed under this cover. Remove it and see if there is an empty slot for the new memory. If you don’t have a free slot available, then you will have to remove one or both  of  the existing modules. Before starting the upgrade see your laptop manual to find out what type of RAM is supported.

The most commonly used types of RAMs are listed below.

SDRAM PC 100/133

pin count – 144                                                                                             operating voltage – 3.3v

SDRAM PC 100/133 ; pin count - 144 ; operating voltage - 3.3v————————————————————————————————

DDR RAM

pin count – 200                                                                                                 operating voltage – 2.6v

DDR RAM ; pin count - 200 ; operating voltage - 2.6v————————————————————————————————

DDR 2 RAM

pin coumt – 200                                                                                           operating voltage  – 1.8v

DDR 2 RAM ; pin coumt - 200 ; operating voltage  - 1.8v———————————————————————————————–

DDR3 RAM

pin count – 204                                                                                           operating voltage – 1.5v

DDR3 RAM ; pin count - 204 ; operating voltage - 1.5v———————————————————————————————–

The 200-pin SO DIMMs  (DDR and DDR2)  are almost indistinguishable so be careful when you buy such RAMs. The only difference between them is  location of  the notch. If the notch is located further outboard, it indicates the DDR class of memory. When the notch is located nearer the center of the board, it indicates DDR2. These two types of memory are not interchangeable, and the different notch locations prevent incorrect installation.

ARTICLE SOURCE: http://pc-level.com/2009/02/laptop-ram-upgrade/

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All-In-One Computer Repair

Lenovo All-In-One Computer Repair

Lenovo All-In-One Computer Repair

With the flexibility and accessibility of obtaining a laptop, it is becoming less and less appealing to the mass majority of computer users to purchase less portable computer options. That being said, while many have bought into the laptop shift, the all-in-one computer has seen a wave of popularity. This brings to attention both the advantages of owning an all-in-one computer and the need to know about all-in-one computer repair.

Lightweight and simple, an all-in-one desktop can easily be moved from one room to another with a minimum amount of wiring, often just needing a power plug and maybe a wireless keyboard and mouse. Other advantages include being space saving, style, and new touchscreen options. With advantages, however, comes one disadvantage, the cost of maintenance and repair. All-in-one specific issues necessitate finding an all-in-one computer repair technician, should something go array.

The central issue is the tendency for all-in-one computers to overheat. This eventually wears down components or burns them out. There is a lack of space within the units due to the need to fit many components into a small space. Essentially, they are laptops on a stand, attached to an LCD screen. The lower voltage and cooler running components of modern processors chips and hard drives mean a better unit overall, as compared to when these computers first appeared on the market. Still, a few precautions can help maintain the functionality of your unit.

All-in-one computers should be kept in well-ventilated areas, allowing for air to pass through freely. Keeping the area fee of dust can help keep vents clear. Running too many programs or heavy-duty applications can quickly exhaust your system, as it works the system very hard, generating a lot of heat.

Another great option to consider is checking background programs, such as start-up programs, that may be running. You can take you unit to a computer technician with experience in all-in-one computer repair, who can then tune up and configure your computer to run on less background programs.

While all-in-one computers aren’t for everyone, they are still a great option as a central computer for a household and offer as much performance as a mobile computer with a larger screen. They also use a standard keyboard and mouse, which can make it easier to use with tasks that require large amounts of input. These benefits will make the all-in-one computer and, thus, all-in-one-computer repair, a viable market for some time to come.